1. Head must be uniformly tapered, clean cut.
2. Skull and Muzzle or foreface should be equal in length only slightly arched.
3. Eyes-dark oval shaped. Well set in the skull.
4. Nose should be black in all color except some dilute colors like chocolate & tan etc.
5. Bite should be the scissor. The Molars should be shearing. Example below of 4 different types of bites.

Scissor bite (above) "ideal" The teeth should fit perfectly together like a puzzle piece.

Level bite (above) notice how upper and lower fangs do not fit perfect together.

Over bite (above) notice how the upper teeth are far over the bottom.

Under bite (above) notice how the lower teeth are under the top.
6. Throat-clean cut
7. Shoulder blades and upper arms, humerous- equal in length. each 45 degree to vertical. close to chest.
8. Breast bone- prominent. forechest long.
9. Keel- curved up gradually forward and back, from midway between elbow and wrist.
10. Ears- set up on high and well rounded.
11 Neck- long muscular, with some arch.
12. Shoulders/withers clean of excess fat or skin.
13. Chest- oval.
14. Back- neither sagged nor slightly arched.
15. Loin- compact and strong.
16. Croup- rump rounded, no higher than withers.
17. Tail- strong, in line with spine, well covered with hair, not too gay, meaning the tail is carried above the level of the spine.
18. Fore and hind quarters- muscular and compact. parallel viewed from front or rear.
19. Balance- head lengths equals to length of neck, tail, depth of body. Everything must be in alignment and the dog must perfectly conform in every way.
20. Pelvis thigh- femur shin or calf tibia & fibia equal in length at right angles.
21. Hock joint- turned neither in nor out.
22. Tarsus joint and metatarsus- verticle
23. feet paws good-sized, firm, compact, pointing forward toes.. well arched. Nails black & kept short. Front dewlaws(side nails) must be removed to show a Dog.
24. Wrist & pastern- straight
25. Forearm and ulna- straight
26. Elbow- close to chest
27. Keel- merging into slightly, tucked-up into abdomen.
28. Abdomen- should have a nice tuck-up, blending up from ribs to groin area.
29. Knee & stifle joint should be at 90 degree.
30. Testicles- Males must have 2 testicles. A dog shouldn't be altered (spayed or neutered) to be shown.
Disqualifications: knuckling over the front legs.
Information on flawed tails in Dachshunds and more below.
Gay tails in Dachshunds are very unattractive-
A tail that is carried above the level of the back is considered a Gay tail. This in Dachshunds is very unattractive. To be shown a Dachshund's tail must set in continuation with the spine without kinks, twists, or pronounced curvatures, and not carried too gaily.
Hook tails in Dachshunds is when the tail lays flowing in-line with the body but, the end curls into a pronounced hook.
Kinked tails in Dachshunds is when at some point down the length of the tail forms a kink-at most severe like kinking a garden hose to a mild slight bend in the tail. This is a developmental phenomenon. This flaw will not affect the dog in anyway. A kink can be anywhere on the tail but, is most common past the hock. Some kinks are so bad in some lines of Dachshunds that a puppy can be born with a corkscrew tail or no tail at all. Corkscrew tails in Dachshunds are very rare but, can happen.
Brush tail- is when a Dachshund's tail is in between smooth and long hair on it's tail. Short coats must be short (smooth hair) all over. Long hair must be long on the ears, back of the legs, undercarriage and the tail must plume.
Plumed tail- is what is referred to a nice full tail of a long haired Dachshund. A Dachshund's tail should plume and form at flag at the end of tail full grown.
Mops- refers to a Long Haired Dachshund's foot hair growth. This is seen as a flaw in the show ring. A Dachshund's mops need trimmed for a number of reasons besides cosmetic. The hair on the feet can become damp and cause a fungus to grow on his paw pads. If his feet smell cheesy (oh gross) he may have a fungus.
Tips by Marilynn- what is takes to be a champion: Some Dachshunds are for showing, some are for breeding and some are just the perfect pet. A Dachshund's nose must be long and pointed to show it- not too narrow nor too wide. He must carry the perfect scissor bite. His eyes should not be too far spaced. The eyes should be almond shaped. No wall eyes. Darkest eyes are preferable for showing. No prominent 3rd eyelids showing. His ears should not be to too high set nor too forward or back. His skull must be curved/grooved in slightly at the stop- the stop is in between the eyes at the joining of the nose and skull. The head should appear flat on the top with a slight curve only at the stop. He should not have a bump on the back of his skull at the crest as some dogs do. The skull should not be too rounded. His neck must be slightly long and slender but muscular. No knuckling over the front legs. His chest should be deep and robust. His topline (back and loin area) should be what they call "tabletop". The back should not be saddled or saddle- back. He should not have any over abundance of excess skin anywhere on his body- which can be seen around the neck area on some Dachshunds. His expression should be clever, lively and courageous, must be fearless. The perfect headset should match the body, meaning the body shouldn't be too big for his head. Shyness is seen as a fault in the show ring so, socialization is key. A small amount of white of the chest of a solid color Dachshund isn't seen as a fault but, I would try to avoid showing one with white on his chest-Go for perfection. Dewclaws on both front paws need to be removed to show. The body needs to be long but, not extremely long to where it doesn't fit the rest of him. His legs must be short and not that resembling a terrier. His coat shouldn't have cowlicks, it must lay nicely. A short hair or smooth should be short haired, he should feel like velvet. The long hair should have a nice full coat which is well groomed. The long haired Dachshund should carry a noble expression. Muscle tone should be seen on a smooth and felt on wires and long haired. More on this subject later.. Marilynn
If you don't have the time to take your dog to obedience classes, to focus on training your dog daily from a small puppy, then you will need to find and hire yourself a dog handler. A professional handler is a person qualified by virtue of their experience and ability to show another's dog and for a fee. A true professional abides by a code of ethics, and is educated and experienced in the sport of showing dogs. They devote much of their time to the expert care, conditioning and exhibiting of the purebred show dog. The professional handler maintains appropriate kennel facilities, and vehicles equipped for safely transporting client dogs.When considering using a professional handler, here are a few thoughts to keep in mind:
1. The professional handler will evaluate your dog's potential as a show dog.
2. The professional handler will educate you in areas of conditioning, training and grooming in order to make them competitive in the conformation ring.
3. The professional handler can devote the time required to condition your dog both mentally and physically to take on the stamina required for shows.
4. The professional handler will use their experience to present your dog to the best of its advantage.
5. The professional handler has the ability to exhibit your dog in a wide geographic area, taking advantage of shows where the dog can best perform and win.
6. The professional handler can earn a championship on the dog in less time and expense than the owner-handler.
When choosing a professional handler, ask these questions:
1. Inquire about the kennel facilities. Generally speaking, the kennel should have permanent housing indoors with room enough for the dog to walk around without being cramped. There should be exercise areas outdoors. Grooming areas should be clean; and proper feeding and training equipment available.
2. Ask for a personal inspection of the kennel, facilities, and vehicle in which your dog will travel to shows with the handler.
3. Ask who will maintain control over your dog when the handler is not available.
4. Ask about your dog's daily routine, veterinary care, and how the dog will be cared for at the shows.
A professional handler will have a fully equipped vehicle with crates, exercise pens, grooming, feeding and watering equipment to provide care in all types of weather while at a show. Make it a point to observe the handler's area at indoor and outdoor shows.
Professional handlers are a valuable source of knowledge in the sport of purebred dogs. Not only are their services available to clients, but also they are in demand by kennel clubs to judge match and sweepstake events, and organizing grooming and parking at dog shows. Many handlers offer lectures on a variety of topics to assist in educating the general public on animal welfare issues.

This is some informative info touching base on a variety of subjects.We offer Basic Research info on colors, patterns & genetics. We also have info on the horrors of Puppymills. Please take the time to read if you can. You can help stop Puppymills simply by not buying a puppy from the pet store.

Below are some gene alleles of a Dachshund.
Full color means (CC)
Full pigmentation (DD)
Single dappled means (Ms)
Double Dapple (homozygous) (MM)
no ticking piebald means (tt)
smooth coat means (xSxS)
tan-pointed (atat)
shows black, carries chocolate (Bb)
shows full pigmentation, carries blue dilution (Dd)
normal extension (EE)
recessive red means(ee)
no graying (gg)
no dappling (mm)
solid color with points (Sat)
no ticking (tt)
Dominant red (ayay)
Carries black (BB)
Piebald spotting (spsp)
ticking (Tt)
blue dilution (d)
double blue dilution (dd)
Wild Boar Red Sable (aw)
Recessive Chocolate (B)
Dominant Black (K)
Brindle (ebr)
Graying of coat (GG)
Piebald (SP)
Extreme white piebald(sw)
IRISH SPOTTING PIEBALD(si)
Solid in Color no tan points (S)
Wirehair(xW)
Smooth(xS)
Longhair(xL)
Dominant Black (As)
Chinchilla(Albino)dilution means (C)
Blue dilution means (D)
Red/yellow (ay ay)
Wild Boar & Sable (aw)
This is some additonal information below about Colors & Patterns. Informative info on Puppy Mills, Shipping etc. This info should be useful to breeders, consumers, or anyone who owns a Dachshund.
Let's start with what the AKC Dachshund standard calls "base" colors.This term is rather misleading and should be more appropriately called "self" color.The self colors in Dachshunds are: red, cream, black and tan, black and cream, chocolate and tan, blue and tan, Isabella (fawn) and tan, and wild boar. Then there's patterns: Dapple, Piebald, double dapple, Brindle & Sable but, Wild Boar is a listed as a base color.
An English Cream Dachshund.The Chinchilla Dilution ("C") gene series is responsible for true English cream.It effects the base coat color RED, and it effects TAN POINTS. It does NOT effect BLACK and CHOCOLATE pigment. This is why English Cream Dachshunds can have BLACK overlay. The RED base coat is diluted to the cream color but, the black overlay is unaffected. This is also why Black & Cream Dachshunds have CREAM POINTS. The TAN POINTS are diluted to the cream color but, the black base coat is unaffected color. A Pure English Cream is basically a Red Dachshund that has been affected by the "C" gene series. Buyer beware of cheap imitations! A Pure English Cream is one born of 2 English cream parents, they should NEVER have liver colored noses. The Pure English Creams should have black noses and nails. Say example: One Parent of a puppy is chocolate & tan and the other is 1/2 English Cream then some of the puppies may appear to be cream, may look cream colored but, could have a liver color nose even hazel eyes. I wouldn't pay a small fortune for that puppy. TRUE English Creams today in the U.S. run from $1000.00 up to $3000.00 depending on the seller, the bloodline, the particular puppy. English Cream originated in the British United Kingdom by adding an albino gene, Gene series " C" to a Red longhair Dachshund which started this beautiful color.True English Creams are only in the longhair variety. Chinchilla dilution (English Cream) again can effect tan points & any base color except black & chocolate. This is why a black or chocolate Dachshunds can have cream points. This is why a true longhair English cream can have black hairs mixed with the cream, usually on the ears, back, or tail.These are called "shaded creams".True longhair English creams are very dark in color when born, but get lighter in shade as they get older. A true cream dog resulting from chinchilla dilution will NOT ever have any hint of red on their coat, and will always have a black nose & nails. The color of a chinchilla diluted dog(English Cream)will get LIGHTER over time.
The Blue Dilution gene series ("D") is responsible for American cream, blue & tan, and isabella & tan. It effects the base coat colors RED, BLACK, and CHOCOLATE. It does NOT effect TAN POINTS. This is why American Cream Dachshunds CANNOT have BLACK overlay. The RED base coat is diluted to the cream color, and any black overlay is diluted to a BLUE color. This is also why Blue & Tan Dachshunds have TAN POINTS. The TAN POINTS are NOT effected, but the black base coat is diluted to a BLUE color.Blue and tan dogs very often have coat problems known as Color Dilution Alopecia (or CDA) such as very thin coats (this hair loss, or alopecia, often does not show up until the dog is 2-7 years old and skin that is subject to allergies and infections. A blue & tan Dachshund, whether solid or patterned,will not have any black hair on their body. An isabella & tan Dachshund whether solid or patterned, will not have any chocolate hair on their body.
FULL PIGMENTATION
DOMINANT, cannot be carried as recessive DD, Dd.
FULL COLORING COMPLETELY DOMINANT to cch,
Ccch results in partial chinchilla dilution.(CC) Full Chinchilla Genes from 2 sets of genes. Cc Ch is 1/2 Chinchilla gene( English Cream).
DILUTED PIGMENTATION RECESSIVE to D has no effect on tan points effects dominant (ay) & clear (ee) red dilute red. Black (B), Chocolate (b) source of: blue & tan.
Chocolate and Tan: (b) series recessive to (B)
A Chocolate and Tan Dachshund is one that has a dark brown (the color of a Hershey chocolate bar) to a light brown body color with tan markings on the face and paws, etc. Chocolate and Tan is recessive to red, red sable or wild boar, and black and tan. True Chocolate and Tans MUST have hazel eyes and liver-colored nails and nose, and they MUST have tan points. If a dog has brown eyes, then it is not a Chocolate and Tan. Note: a puppy that is NOT Chocolate and Tan should not be represented as carrying for chocolate and tan unless one parent is a Chocolate and Tan. Two Chocolate and Tans bred together will have ALL Chocolate and Tan offspring.It is documented that breeders shouldn't be doing a lot of dilute to dilute breeding as It is believed this can cause a weaken immunity system after a while. The results will be the off-springs will be more susceptible to skin and coat defects.
Chocolate Dapples
The dapple pattern on a Chocolate and Tan Dachshund is lighter than the dark chocolate background but, is still a shade of light Chocolate, like a creamy color. Chocolate and Tan dogs have the same tan markings as Black and Tan dogs, but their main body color should be a rich Hershey Chocolate-brown color. Hazel eyes are often seen with this color and is acceptable, and noses and nails are usually liver-colored. Pinkish-brown noses and pale green eyes are not desirable as they may indicate the presence of excessive dilution factors. Chocolate and tan's can "sunburn" spending many hours outdoors on very hot summer days.The tips of the hairs along the neck and back can turn an unattractive dull reddish color with too much sun exposure. This will go away though when the dog sheds and a new coat comes in. You may even want to buy a hypo-allergenic sunscreen and apply it on their coat, especially smooth coat Dachshunds because they don't have the thick coats that longhair Dachshunds have. Isabella is just a more diluted version of the Chocolate & tan. Isabella & Tan Dachshunds are just one shade lighter than the chocolate & tan. When you breed two Chocolate & Tan's together you will have ALL Chocolate & Tans. If you breed an Isabella & Tan to a Chocolate & Tan you will get a mix of both colors, Same with Blue & Tan.
NOTE:THERE IS NO SUCH THING AS A CHOCOLATE RED. That would be considered an (ee) red and or dilute red. A dilute red ranges from a very light red color to looking like a pure chocolate & tan at birth with tan points showing and fade by 3-4 wks. of age until the tan points are gone, getting lighter each week. (ee) red dilutes may or may not carry the chocolate/tan gene. You can get an (ee) red from breeding 2 reds together but, it is seen more commonly from breeding a chocolate to a red, those (ee) red would defintely carry for Chocolate. All true red dogs, no matter what their shade of coloring, always have brown eyes (the darker the better) and black noses and nails.Occasionally, a brown dilution gene will creep in and causes the eyes to be hazel (greenish-brown), and the noses and nails to be brown or liver-colored as mentioned in this section especially when breeding red to red.These dogs do not have tan markings and are not chocolate dogs. Chocolate based reds are one from a Chocolate parent, Just plain (ee) red dilute is one from a red to red parent especially if one of those red parents has a chocolate parent.
LETS TALK PURE REDS.. Red can refer to anything from a deep mahogany red, to a pale golden or yellow color, and all shades of brownish red in between. Red dogs may be clear red, meaning no black hairs, or may have many black hairs interspersed in their coats, particularly when they are puppies.This is often quite prevalent on longhair Dachshunds, leading many breeders to refer to these puppies as "sable".These are NOT sables - TRUE sables are very rare!Anyone who advertises selling sable & doesn't own one are just ignorant. The black overlay on red dogs may be quite heavy on the ears and along the top of the back, this often fades as the dog grows up. These dogs with heavy black overlays should be registered as "RED". True sable is probably the rarest pattern of all and perhaps the most difficult pattern to describe. Many people mistakenly call a red dog with a heavy black overlay a sable. This is incorrect, the dog should be registered as red with no pattern. A true red sable is so DARK it almost looks like a black and tan from a distance. All body hairs, except on the face and feet, are banded with two colors, the self color occurs closest to the dog's body while the darker color occurs near the hair tip. The face and feet are usually just the dog's self color. Therefore, a red sable will have body hairs which are red near the base and black near the tips, and a red face and red feet. One parent MUST be a sable to produce a sable pup. Wild boar may be the expression of the sable pattern but, Wildboar is a wirehaired Dachshund color and in my opinion should only be used for Wirehair. I bought a male marked originally Wildboar by the breeder, I had to pay to have it changed on his AKC paperwork as it turns out he's a red even dappled too. You can't make mistakes when marking dogs through AKC because it messes it up for a good future breeders as they will have incorrect information when researching their Dachshunds AKC 5 generation pedigree. All smooth coat reds with dark overlays should indeed be marked RED!Some Crazy Breeders just like to hype things up, like I have this rare color etc. Below are some pictures of a TRUE GERMAN red sable..



There's no such thing as rare anymore as Commercial Puppymills & Backyard breeders messed it up along time ago. LOL! Give me a break! What about these designer pups, LOL! Example a Doodle, 1/2 Poodle & 1/2 Dachshund, We don't believe in cross breeding or inbreeding! AKC doesn't allow you to cross breed, only such kennel clubs like CKC etc. If you are looking for a dog with a pure bloodline only buy an AKC. AKC does allow some inbreeding such as Mother/Son, Father/Daughter at the closest, I myself wouldn't do that! Some breeders believe that if you have 2 flawless Dachshunds, say Mother/Son that it will create the PERFECT Dachshunds pups and then Some Breeders inbreed to find out what flaws are in their lines to eliminate them. I have read many stories about inbreeding and you can have puppies born with inguinal hernia (females & males) where a loop of intestines comes out in the testicle sac of the male dog & the groin area of the female, serious coat defects, an open skull/ soft spot, being born with only 1 testicle, It can even cause or create a dog to have a severe behavioral problem etc. My advise when purchasing a new puppy is to ask to see the parents pedigrees prior to purchase & good breeders should have them studied & can email them to you or mail you a "Hard Copy".There's almost always a small pecentage of inbreeding on a pedigree in the background but, don't pay an astronomical amount for a puppy if they are closely inbred such as Father/Daughter and or Mother/Son. I have 5 males here which we have selected as good mates for everyone of our females, most having many champion lines. We breed for temperament most importantly so, all of our dogs are champions in our eyes. All of our Dachshunds are sweet, extremely lovable & unique in their own way. We love all of them and they all get supreme care.
Let's talk Black & Tan's... A Black and Tan Dachshund is shiny black with rich reddish-brown markings on his face, chest, all four feet, and under the tail. Noses and nails are black, and the eyes should be dark brown. Tan markings which are very predominant and/or pale red in color are not desirable, nor are smudgy markings with a lot of black in them which makes the dog appear solid black from a distance.When mixing dilution factors into a Black & Tan Dachshund say Chocolate & Tan, their points may become a lighter shade. Black and Cream Dachshunds are identical to black and tan Dachshunds except that the markings on the face, chest, feet, and under the tail are PURE, pale Cream instead of reddish-brown or tan.It is not true that breeding black and tan dogs with correct reddish-tan markings together over many generations will result in the loss of the tan markings.When dogs with smudgy tan markings are bred together over many generations, it might be possible to reduce the tan markings to the point where the resulting offspring appear to be solid black.Genetically, these are not true solid black dogs, although they are often advertised as such by unscrupulous breeders. Solid Black, Chocolate, and so on, are not desirable for show or breeding purposes because they will muddy any other colors they are bred to, and from an aesthetic point of view, the typical lively Dachshund expression does not show up in a solid black face.
TAN POINTS
RECESSIVE to ay (dominant red), ee (shows normal extension, carries recessive red)INCOMPLETELY RECESSIVE to aw (Wild boar/sable) on (aw) (Wild boar/sable) and (at)
Recessive red "clear red", tan points will show on atat coat color is determined by A, B, or E series which means points may show on red puppies at birth then will fade. Tan points appearing on black of course making them black & tan but, if a Dachshund is born without the atat they would be solid black or chocolate depending on the parents gene pool. E series means Normal extension.Blue dilution does not effect tan points, like chinchilla dilution does.This is why blue and isabella dogs have normal colored tan points. Dilute red & clear dilute red are sometimes mistaken for cream in puppies, but will turn a reddish shade as puppies get older.These puppies should be registered as red, & not cream.The blue dilution allele effects black and chocolate pigment, so the nose & nails of these puppies are blue or liver colored.True creams always have a black nose & nails, so it's unlikely that blue dilution plays a part in producing a TRUE cream.The color of a blue diluted dog will get DARKER over time.
Brindle Brindling is a pattern that is expressed as dark stripes all over the dog's body, running from midline down to the belly. The most common brindle Dachshund is the red brindle. However, brindling can affect any base color. A black and tan Dachshund that has brindling will only show it on the tan points, not on the black body color. Brindling is a dominant pattern, the puppy only needs to get one gene out of two to be a brindle. You can't get the Brindle pattern in a litter if neither parent shows brindle.
A Dachshund cannot carry for dapple (Merle) if just one (M) is present, the dog is then a single dapple (showing) but, remember a puppy has 2 alleles for pattern from each parent one solid gene one dapple gene. One dapple (M) gene doesn't mean they carry for it however, they can produce solids and dapples. Our Willow Mae is a (MM) which means she does carry for it from both parents making her have all dappled puppies everytime. Our Sassy is marked a Double dapple because she had 25% white on her coat as a puppy and stills retains a lot of white on her coat but, has produced a solid color puppy. Sometimes a dapple bred to a dapple can produce a DRAW meaning the genes from both dappled parents, mom(Ms) & Dad(Ms) crossed over one another making the puppy solid in color(no dapple), the puppy then was only passed one dapple gene(m) not showing dappling (Sm). Sometimes a puppy from a dappled parent may appear solid colored, when in fact there's a tiny spot of dappling present that goes unnoticed. That puppy can produce dappled offspring even though he may be mistakenly registered as a solid colored Dachshund, very common in REDS and with inexperienced breeders. While a dappled parent can produce solid colored offspring, be very careful when evaluating their solid colored puppies. If a puppy has blue or dappled eyes (one or both), they are dappled. Also inspect the eyes more in depth for a blue ring around the puppy's iris as that may be an indication of HIDDEN dapple. A dappled dog who has some white on their chest, toes, or tail is not necessarily a double dapple. I have found through the years that a double dapple almost always has a white tipped tail and a white collar around the neck. I have even seen a double dapple to have brown eyes, where the pigment of the Iris was left untouched but, most have blue eyes or partially blue. It is generally accepted that a double dapple has at least 25% white showing on their coat. A double dapple can only be produced by two dappled parents, and can be born blind and/or deaf but, not always the case. NEVER BREED A DAPPLE TO A DAPPLE, as the pups can be born with missing eyes, smaller eyes, missing ears, deaf/partially deaf. A TRUE double dappled dog can only produce dappled or double dappled puppies. Note: A double dapple can be bred to a solid color Dachshund with beautifully single(Ms) dappled puppies as a result, I would recommend going with a solid black & tan mate as REDS are hard to tell unless you seen the puppy as a newborn and looked it all over and maybe even did a test breeding first with a solid female(If you are a breeder)so, you know the male is definitely NOT a dapple. A dappled piebald will show dappling in the colored areas, not the white areas.You should never mix two patterns together as this is bad breeding, how would you mark them? AKC only gives you the choice of one pattern, the puppy would be an outcast. Some bad breeder try to pass a double dapple off as a Piebald. There's piebald dapples out there but, only bred by backyard breeders and or commerical-puppymills.
NEVER buy a puppy from a pet store, as they're probably from a puppymill. No reputable breeder sells their puppies to a pet store or to a puppy broker. These slimeballs make me sick! I know a good breeder when I see one & any breeder who tries to FUDGE something to make a sell is SO WRONG! Like saying a puppy is Chocolate & tan when it isn't. No breeder is perfect but, through reseach, trial & error, let's try to improve the Dachshund breed one breeder at a time.
Sorry NO Shipping Here. We don't ship our puppies & refuse to as we know that it could be tramatizing to a puppy. The puppy is boarded on the plane where the luggage is stored. What if there's a lay over for 2 hrs.? How do you know the puppies are being taken care for properly ? We have never had any of our puppies left behind, some families have driven 8 hours one way to purchase a puppy from us. It is the responsibility of the dog breeders to find a good home for each puppy no matter how long it takes. We have puppies in all the surrounding states of Pennsylvania & in Michigan, Georgia & Florida just to name a few. It's also a personal preference from a buyer, as they don't prefer getting a shipped puppy. How does a buyer know for sure where the puppy came from? What was the living conditions like? Puppymills hand there puppies over to brokers which bathe and clean up the puppies, making things look good. One time I went to a Pet store located in the Century Three mall, They had a male Red Longhair Dachshund puppy for sale well, of course I wanted to see him because I love them all. They wanted $900.00 for him & as I was checking him over & playing with him, I noticed his tail was kinked on the end. I then told the manager, this puppy has a tail defect and you want $900.00 for this puppy? I explained I was a Dachshund breeder. The puppy was probably from a puppy mill as he shivered and shook all over like it wasn't properly socialized. I asked the manager where the puppy came from & she said Missouri. It's sad to see a puppy like that. An informative website on puppy mills is http://prisonersofgreed.org/ Watch the video however, Viewer discretion is advised!! I got sick! I can't believe how people can be so cruel, it's so sad but true.
Matings etc: It is absolutely true that a Dam can mate with two or more males during the same heat cycle. Most people don't know this. This means their can be 2 or more fathers of the same litter. All of our matings are monitored closely. We witness every mating which is required by the AKC. I even take pictures as proof. Our females only make contact with one selected male. We don't have accidental matings, all litters are planned. We try to get 2-3 successful ties, 2-3 days in a row to ensure a good size litter so, the puppies do not grow too large for the Dam to have, which can certainly happen if a Dam only has one or two puppies in a litter. When this happens a C-SECTION is needed ASAP! or the Dam & puppies are at risk of death. Breeding a female one day, then again 5 days later is not good because some of the puppies will be older inside & some younger. This will cause some of the puppies to die especially if the dam delivers earlier than her due date. A Dam usually carries her puppies for 63 days. Newborn puppies will die if they are born any sooner than 58 days because they will not have the soapy surfactant they need in their lungs to expand their lungs to breathe. ALL good breeders monitor their dogs closely, by keeping a calendar of when the females should be coming into season. All females heat cycles are different but, mine are in heat every 8-9months. I even take a white papertowel and dab them daily to check for a red discharge when I know she should be coming in. Also they will be swelled but, the swelling is not always noticable until they have been in season for a few days. Matings should occur 10 days or so after you first notice a red discharge. The female may curl her tail up from side to side, this is called flagging, meaning she is ready to mate. So you think you could be a Good Dog Breeder? Get ready to not have a social life, to be dedicated, forget about buying anything new for yourself! A good breeder spends more money than they make. Our Dogs are our social life, Our adopted children & the loves of our lives! If you do decide to breed be prepared to pay up to $1500.00 if your female has trouble & needs a C-section in the middle of the night. Also you should never do back to back breedings because this is very hard on a dog. You should also breed then skip a heat then, consult you Veterinarian whether it would be ok to breed her again. A dog cannot be to fat nor to thin to breed it, also dogs have feelings and emotions too. Is she emotionally solid for another pregnancy, if she isn't then she could neglect her puppies making the breeder responsible for nursing puppies every 2 hours with puppy replacement milk. So do you still think you have what it takes to be a good breeder? If so, Good Luck! I have never lost a puppy yet but, must tell you I've lost a lot of sleep staying up for days sometimes.
Deliveries: My first litter was a litter of 7, all born naturally. I've napped but, I have "Puppy Radar Ears" and my females are right there beside me. Our females temperatures are taken 2 times a day for the last week, I keep a log of her temperature waiting for a significant drop. The normal temperature is 99.5-102.5. Well, during the last week of pregnancy it drops down to about 100.0-100.7 F or so. When a females temp. drops to 98.8 degrees F or below, it won't be long, 12-24 hours depending upon things like, has she ever had a litter before etc.. Temperature taking is not always a accurate way to tell if labor is going to begin. Well with 2 of my females, they whelp at 100.0 F so, there's other signs like restlessness, digging their blankets like crazy, glassy and or staring eyes (staring like they are looking through you), dilated pupils, panting when it's not even that warm in the house, a clear mucous discharge, they may even get a reddish look in their eyes almost like a child with a fever etc. My females are so accustomed to me being there that they just have to do the pushing and I take care of everything else. Such as tying off the cord with dental floss, then cutting the cord with sterilized scissors, suctioning their mouths & noses with a sterilized bulb syringe, I rubbed them down and I clean all the birthing matter off, I stimulate them to get a real hard cry to clear out their lungs & to get them nice & pink with good blood flow then, put them on mom's nipple to get their colostrum enriched mommy's milk. In the amount of time I do this Mom has already cleaned up and is getting ready for another puppy to come. Puppies can come anywhere from 5 minutes later to no later than 3 hours. At the longest I've ever seen them spaced apart in delvering is 1 hr. 45 minutes but, it can be up to 3 hours later but, NO longer. I would have my female to the Vet if I didn't see a puppy after the 2 hour mark, you have to take into consideration travel time etc.. Penelope delivered her last litter of 5 in 2 hours flat. I have had some scary things happen that an inexperienced person would not know what to do like, a puppy once was coming out in the breech position which is harder on the mom this way. Not only was this puppy coming out breech but, she was belly-up, and a tight squeeze at that, she weighed 10 oz. and that's big for a mini pup to be born weighing 10 oz. I had to get a rough towel and slowy rotate the puppy to get her to come out. This was sooo scary but, all went well. That's why I know if a female was left to whelp alone that this scenario is one the reasons why puppies may not make it. Once the puppy's sac is ruptured or broken open, you have 5 minutes or so to get the puppy out, otherwise it will drown in it's own fluids. Things have happened to me in many deliveries but, my breeder's heart has always told me what to do. I'm my dog's mid-wife, if it takes ALL night, 2 days of staying up waiting for labor to begin, and if they ever need a C-section I will always see that they get to the Vet right away. I can look into my dog's eyes and just read them like an open book. They'll tell me.
Puppy Care: Our puppies are always monitored closely to make sure they are gaining proper weight especially in the first 7 days. Then once a week weigh-ins after that. I watch them to make sure they are nursing properly, that their mom is doing everything natural instincts tell her to do, puppy blankets are changed 2 times a days or more depending, Mom is being fed puppy food & gave her daily vitamin supplement. I handle the puppies everyday to get them used to human contact but, I don't allow anyone but me to touch them until they're 3 wks. old. When I say not anyone that means also my boys, my husband or any outsiders. No visiting until 3 wks. of age. Why? due to possible contagious diseases and also due to the stress that it will cause the mom. By 3 wks. of age the puppies have been nursing for awhile and have received plenty antibodies from mom's milk to protect them. I'm a real Germ-A-Phobe, LOL! It's text-book though too, that a breeder shouldn't allow visitation until the puppies are 3 wks. old. The puppies are like my children, and I will protect the puppies & my dogs with my life. Thanks for your understanding!
A Piebald dog cannot carry for ticking. If one (T) is present, the dog is ticked.Ticked piebalds are sometimes mistaken for dapples or double dapples.If neither parent is dappled, you have a ticked piebald, not a dapple.A dappled piebald will show dappling in the colored areas, not the white areas.A ticked piebald will show ticking in the white areas, not the colored areas. Just because a Dachshund has piebald in it's bloodline doesn't mean it carries for it, they must show it to throw it, meaning they must physically be a Piebald to throw piebald puppies.True piebald bred to true piebald always produces an entire litter of piebald pups. Piebald is a true recessive gene meaning that both parents must be piebald, and/or carry the piebald gene to produce a piebald pup from their sire or dam.
White on a Solid color Dachshund is simply an imperfection in the coat coloring. It is common on the chest but, a serious flaw anywhere else. It is acceptable in solid colored Dachshunds to have a small patch of white on the chest but, not desirable by AKC standards. Dapples can have a large patch of white on their chest & it's highly acceptable by the AKC. I have noticed when breeding 2 Dachshunds without the white chest marking on their chests, the puppies 99.9% of the time don't have it. If you breed a Dachshund who has the white marking on the chest, even if it was small and faded, some puppies born will have it. So, this is a minor genetic flaw in the coat coloring. I try not to select and breed Dachshunds that have this. Piebald Dachshunds should be even in pattern so, if one ear is red the other one should be too. There's piebalds with NO ticking meaning no spots on the white. Then, there's a few different types of Ticking(spots) light ticking, heavy ticking and Irish Ticking. A piebald's base color should always be even in color with no gray/silver dappling through the base color, if it does you could be buying a Piebald dapple. Piebald Dapples are outcasts because they are one of a dappled & a piebald parent, which is Bad Breeding as AKC only gives you 1 choice for marking pattern. If someone is selling a piebald Dachshund it should NEVER have blue eyes, just brown.
A Wirehair can only produce Wirehair if it's a Wirehair.A longhaired Dachshund cannot carry for wirehair or smooth. A Smooth can carry for Longhair if it's gene alleles looks like this (xSxL) meaning one of the parents were longhair. Dominant Smooth looks like (xSxS) our Jazzmyn is dominant smooth. Just because a Dachshund has Wirehair on their pedigree does not mean that they carry it, that's silly. A Dachshund will only carry wirehair if they are physically a Wirehair Dachshund. Wirehair is the most dominant of all three coat varieties then the Smooth 2nd then the longhair last.Wirehair will only produce wirehair and there's 2 types of wirehair, soft wire & hard wire. Soft Wires were created by mixing a longhair Dachshund and a hard wirehaired Dachshund together. It is written that a wirehair Dachshund was created by cross breeding a Dandie Dinmont terrier, Schnauzer or German Wirehaired Pinscher with a smooth coat Dachshund, now you can understand why they have a beard. Wirehair Dachshunds are supposed to be the comedians of they 3 coat varieties. Smooths are spunky & longhairs are calm & extra loving. We don't own any wirehairs.
hard wire hair
soft wire hair
Solid Black Dachshunds actually have tan points that have been effected by some unidentified gene or combination of genes which render the tan points in a color that appears very much like the base color.The (As) allele in the canine "A" (agouti) series,called dominant black, which renders solid black without points in some breeds(Labrador Retrievers for example) also still occurs in the dachshund breed. The 'dominant black' (As) allele is dominant over red in other breeds. Solid Black or Chocolate Dachshunds, They are pretty and everything but, I think it just takes away from that beautiful Dachshund expression. People may even look and question, Is that a Dachshund? It looks odd to me, we are sticking with traditional markings. The Solid Chocolate or Black muddy's out everything and is a given that you will have all Solid-no-points puppies everytime, Solid-no-points is dominant.
The name Dachshund originates from the German word 'Dachs' meaning badger, the 'Hund' means hound. Being a short legged breed makes them ideal for going into burrows. Their shortened legs are believed to have evolved through the mutation of genes. The Wire-Haired variety came about through cross-breeding with Dandie Dinmont lines and the Long-Haired variety was developed through crosses with German Stoberhunds. The Miniature Dachshund variety are replicas of the standard breed, except for the difference in size.
The Smooth-Haired Dachshund is the original type of this dog family. The Wire-Haired and Long-Haired types were produced when the Smooth-Haired was crossed with other breeds.
The Dapple and Piebald patterns in Dachshunds are obviously not from the original breeding lines, when Dachshunds began. The Red and Black & Tan Smooth Dachshunds were the originals. It is to the best of my knowledge from what I read over the years, that hunters out in the fields hunting in trials, had a hard time telling one dog from the other, from a distance. The Hunters needed to find a way to correct this for faster response to their dog, so it is my belief and understanding that this is where the "Spotted Dachshund" came from. They speak of the "Spotted Dachshund" noted clear back in the late 1700's. The Merle gene was intermingled in the mix from a discovered albino mutation gene. Hunters were greatful to add the Merle gene, because no 2 Merle patterns are the same, making it easy for them to tell dogs apart from a distance. This would make for more accurate hunting in the feilds. The Piebald is thought to have came from the German Stroberhund. Well, of course they don't call it Merle in Dachshund but, this is the name of the gene. In Dachshund of all of the many breeds recognized by the AKC, Dachshund are the only one of those breeds that they call Merle "dapple". Horses that are merled are also called Dapple. God has sure painted a beautiful world of colors & patterns in Dachshunds! This is a beyond wonderful breed!

All Dachshunds have 2 gene alelles for everything about them from their nose length to their tail length, to what color they are etc., they receive one gene alelle from each parent to create one gene. New things are yet to be discovered by Dachshund fanciers everywhere. AKC- DNA profiling is very interesting also. Our Snicker's, Cutty & Hans are DNA certified. I don't proclaim to know everything about Dachshund genetics but, I have been researching them for many years. Please feel free to email me with questions & I may be also to assist you. I'm constantly researching things in my spare time so, I will have more info on Genetics & History to come. ~Marilynn

This is the 19th Century Dachshund, they were much bigger then than they are today. They were higher legged too, compared to today. This model is from an actual preserved Dachshund located at: The Rothschild Zoological Museum in Tring, England